The Role of Biotechnology in Fragrance Production

Biotechnology is making significant strides, often unnoticed amidst the buzz around artificial intelligence. Research into living organisms, particularly in perfumery, is on the brink of revolutionizing the industry. We spoke with Sylvie Baudino, an expert who has spent years studying how plants produce their fragrances.

Understanding Rose Fragrances

Baudino’s team focuses on various flowers, including roses, lavender, fig, and pelargonium, which produce geraniol, a key ingredient in perfumes and cosmetics. Roses are particularly interesting due to the diversity of their fragrances. With over 35,000 varieties, roses emit different scents depending on their genetic makeup, producing notes of tea, myrrh, fruit, and cloves.

Molecular Level Fragrance Production

The process of fragrance production in roses is complex. Most of the activity occurs in the petals, which act as “perfume factories.” Enzymes within the petal cells synthesize the scent molecules. Research has shown that the enzyme NUDX1, part of the Nudix hydrolase family, plays a crucial role in this biosynthetic pathway, which is unique to roses and some other plants.

Current Research and Discoveries

Baudino’s team is studying wild rose species, including the dog rose (Rosa canina). They have discovered that the synthetic pathway identified in cultivated roses also occurs in the wild. This involves genetic components called transposons, which can cause significant changes in gene expression. Their findings, published in PNAS in 2023, revealed that monoterpenes are synthesized in the cytosol rather than in the plastid.

Collaboration and Practical Applications

The team collaborates with horticulturists and rose breeders, such as the Meilland Company, to analyze fragrances in different rose varieties and guide cross-breeding efforts. By understanding the genetic basis of fragrance production, they can predict and select for desirable traits in new hybrids.

Implications for the Perfume Industry

While the perfume industry has traditionally relied on Rosa centifolia and Rosa damascena, there is potential to explore other varieties for essential oil production. Baudino’s team is also working with fragrance houses to optimize cultivation conditions and improve yields.

The Neurose Programme: Exploring Rose Perception

Baudino collaborates with Nathalie Mandairon from the Centre de Recherche en Neuroscience de Lyon on the Neurose programme, which studies the perception of rose fragrances. This research aims to understand how different molecules contribute to the overall scent and how they are perceived by humans.

Future Directions

By understanding the biosynthesis of fragrance molecules, researchers can explore synthetic biology methods to produce these scents using bacteria, yeast, or even plants. This could open new avenues for creating unique and sustainable fragrance molecules.

By delving into the molecular and genetic basis of fragrance production, researchers like Sylvie Baudino are paving the way for innovative approaches in both horticulture and perfumery. This research not only enhances our understanding of plant biology but also has practical applications that could transform the fragrance industry.