Plant-based microcapsules developed by Xampla, a spin-out from Cambridge University, present exciting opportunities for fragrance innovation, according to the company’s principal scientist.

In January 2024, Xampla secured $7 million (EUR6.45 million), enabling further advancement in the development of its next-generation plant-based materials under the brand name Morro. Comprising various plant proteins like pea and potato, Morro utilizes patented technology to offer natural and fully biodegradable microcapsules, coatings, edible films, and soluble films catering to industries including beauty, home care, nutrition, food, and beverages. Specifically, the microcapsule product from Morro aims to replace synthetic encapsulation in beauty, home, and nutraceutical formulations, thereby reducing the potential use of microplastics.

Lynette Holland, principal scientist at Xampla, expresses optimism: “This could be a significant game-changer.” She further explains, “It’s not merely about substituting existing methods; it presents a novel opportunity, particularly for brands seeking distinct recognition for their signature fragrances.”

The Fragrance Enhancement:

These plant-based microcapsules allow formulators to encapsulate fragrance within various formulas, facilitating a release of potent scent upon application. For instance, when integrated into face or body creams, the fragrance microcapsules burst upon contact with the skin, creating a vibrant scent bloom. This technology enhances the overall product experience, contributing to a positive perception and performance.

Holland elaborates, “Fragrance has a profound impact on product performance… The ability to create this fragrance bloom enhances product effectiveness significantly. Moreover, achieving this in a plastic-free and biodegradable manner is a remarkable achievement.”

The development of these plant-based microcapsules and the Morro brand results from over 15 years of scientific research into proteins and biopolymers, much of which was spearheaded by Professor Tuomas Knowles at the University of Cambridge. Xampla has successfully adapted these microcapsules to accommodate a wide range of fragrances, preserving the integrity of expensive and delicate scent materials.

Previously, creating such a fragrance bloom was challenging due to the prevalence of plastic-based microcapsules, which brands sought to avoid in skincare formulas. The demand for sustainable alternatives has propelled interest in Morro’s biodegradable and plant-based microcapsules.

Looking Ahead:

Xampla is actively working to integrate its microcapsules into fine fragrance formulas, although challenges such as shelf-life and texture remain. Holland mentions ongoing research in sourcing ingredients sustainably, particularly focusing on agricultural waste to ensure scalability without competing with food production.

The Morro brand encompasses various applications beyond microcapsules, including speciality films and coatings. Collaborations with companies like Elemis involve repurposing waste materials for product development, reflecting Xampla’s commitment to innovation and sustainability.